6/7/11

It’s familiar but not too familiar, but not too not familiar.

 Here in Cameroon everywhere is a bus stop, I mean this both literally and philosophically.

I’m at a meeting, a women's meeting. We call them village saving and loan associations where the mommas come every week to save a few hundred francs BOOM a woman pops out her boob to feed her baby. I’m on a bus riding to the capital of my BOOM a woman pops out her boob to feed her malnourished baby. I walk down the street BOOM another boob, and another and another and another. I probably see an average of about twelve boobs a day, and I don’t mean six pairs.

It’s the little cultural differences that crack me up here. For instance one of my favorite socially acceptable things to do here is to pick your nose. There is so much damn dust that people just spend their time digging their noses for gold. I feel freer here, ask my older sister. She used to poke fun at me for the mining I would do. Here, I am FREE!

I remember episodes of ‘Friends’ where Chandler and Joey kept two pets, a duck and a chicken. The randomness of these fowls made the show funnier. However, here you will see random chickens everywhere. In fact, sometimes it just doesn’t feel right without them. Whether it’s in a fancy restaurant or a chicken running in between your legs in a crowded bus, the chickens run free here. Goats, sheep, even cows lead free lives here. Its interesting how so many vegetarians who come to serve here end up eating meat because they see that the animals run free.

I was walking with my friend Andrew to his house the other day and we saw a little monkey just chillin outside one of the houses. Apparently it was the family’s pet. That was another pet on ‘Friends’, Ross had a pet monkey. Here, it is simply normal.

Cramming a family of five on a motorcycle, or people that travel to Nigeria so they can come back with two motorcycles on the back (packed up of course) is the standard. A bus that is supposed to hold 30, they somehow find a way to pack 50. Again, normal. You have to crawl like Spiderman to get to your seat sometimes (actually always). I can’t tell you how many times I’ve jumped out of the window to get out, it is simply easier.

Actually, traveling here deserves its own post. It’s such a pain in the ass, yet sometimes it’s hilarious and fun. I’ll give it an entry some other time.

Everyone here knows how to dance. It’s awesome. The babies, the kids, even the grandmas cut the sand with their beat producing heals. I’ll play music while the kids play with the blocks I bought them and their shoulders and necks start to flow with the music. I’m sure if you ask the volunteers who serve here, at least 75% of them have pictures or videos of their concession kids dancing.

Children here are butlers. They are expected to do everything. You want to add avocados with your omelet? You’re out of powdered milk? Your backpack that you’ve never washed in your life is dirty? You need to get water from the well? Oh, you’re feeling too lazy to get a motorcycle so you can get to your meeting? Your cat’s liter box is full? INSERT CHILD’S NAME HERE can do this for you! For a total of 0 CFA!

There are of course the things that are not so happy.

It is seriously impossible to refuse food here. They treat you as if you ran over their dog if you don’t eat what they give you. Actually the people here treat dogs like s***, maybe a better example is that they treat you like dogs. Even the most elaborate excuse to avoid it is like catching a fly with your hands, only Obama can get away with it. You WILL inevitably lose and you WILL eat what they give you.

I can’t find a single f***** flyswatter here! Where are they? Will someone please send me one? No matter how much I practice my fly catching skills I do not improve. The flies here should be called soars. Because they don’t fly, they soar, that and they make my life a living… sore. (Come on, don’t act like you weren’t expecting at least one bad joke)

There is no such thing as being in a hurry here. Oh my God “African Time” is such a migraine inducing norm. Volunteers know better after a few weeks, we simply do not leave our houses without a book to read while we wait the additional hour or two it takes for everyone to arrive to our meetings.

The other day I was cleaning my room. I lifted my mattress and wouldn’t you know it, the mouse I’ve been trying to catch for the last few months was chillin in between my two mattresses. I got a f*****n cat to catch it and this mouse still scurries around like he’s paying the rent.

I walk around my house at night sometimes to see spiders the size of iPods casually crawling on my walls looking for their diner. I’ve stopped killing them because they get rid of the more annoying insects like nocturnal screamo band crickets.

Its funny, I have a love/hate relationship with prayer time. Five times a day (I have all the hours memorized now) the villagers will go to the mosques to pray. This causes all shops to close during their praying hour. The hour I memorized first was the 5am one. If the daily 5am prayer call doesn’t wake me up then the neighboring babies do. I can’t remember the last time I tried to sleep in. Did I mention my mosque is around 50 feet from my front door? WELL IT IS. The love of my relationship with this particular pillar of Islam is explained… lets just say when the megaphones come a preaching, playtime is over and the children have to leave my living room. Sometimes I like it when the power goes out, it means the mosque’s megaphone doesn’t work. Actually, this is the extent of my pleasure with life without electricity. Sure the candlelight dinners are groovy but too many nights without it can make me moody.

I was going to list corruption on here but I think that too deserves its own journal entry.

Instead I’ll leave it here. Some of my latest entries have been a little serious so tonight I decided to write a light-hearted one. I’ll send you a postcard if you can figure out which band wrote the lyrics of this entry’s title (hopefully it will actually arrive to your mailbox). Peace Corps Out readers.

Carlos J. Fernandez-Torres

5/10/11

I love you, I love you, oh brother of mine

Its funny, I was in Africa when Bin Laden struck the Twin Towers and I am in Africa again when he was killed. I was 10 years younger, 14 years old. I was so far away from New York. I remember being so ignorant to the attacks. I was playing video games and my friend Taz came into the room telling us what had happened. I didn’t even know what the Twin Towers were so I kept playing Smash Bros.

When it started hitting me that this event was a much bigger deal than I had thought I started being more observant to what was going on. I went to a very diverse school. We had a student named Muhammad. He praised what happened to the towers. We had a student from Queens, New York who was shaken and told us all of his friends were fine. Our history teacher who was from Ohio took a day off to discuss what had happened. People were calling Bin Laden a mad genius for the way he turned the tables on the United States. I was not in the U.S. on 9/11 but I know one thing for sure. In Ethiopia I saw mixed opinions and I’m sure there was only one opinion on American soil: revenge.

I am now 10 years older, 24. I was told by my friend Kelsey that Bin Laden was killed as I was ready to extend my sleep that morning. I instinctively jumped up and ran towards the computer to read the news myself. It was true; Bin Laden was in fact… gone. Finally. I took a Peace Corps car that morning back to my village (I was in Ngaoundere for a meeting and banking). During the car ride we discussed what the death of Bin Laden meant for the U.S., for the world.

I remember before the Obama/McCain election I had a discussion with a friend on my floor of why I supported Obama. I told Aimee that living overseas exposed me to the absolute hatred the international community had for the United States. I told her that Obama’s victory would single handedly change the opinion of not millions but billions. She told me she respected me less for that opinion. The truth is she had never left the United States (and probably hasn’t yet either). There was no way of making her understand my point of view. Another truth is that the majority of Americans of whom I have met consider taking a cruise to the Bahamas leaving the country

The truth is I myself was once part of that demographic. I too once hated the United States. I realize now it was because I did not understand what the U.S. stands for. I now understand that ignorance is the first step to understanding something new. The truth is, I was young when I met people who praised Bin Laden’s actions. Aimee only got to see them cheering and burning American flags on CNN, she did not get to speak with them.

Obama did change everything. I cannot tell you enough how many Cameroonians I have met that praise Obama and America when I tell them I am from the United States. There are little children and adults who wear Obama t-shirts, holographic Obama belt buckles, Obama key chains or even Obama underwear! Obama’s victory gave millions of people hope for a (somewhat functional) democracy. Personally I don’t think the timing of the Arab Revolution starting directly after Obama’s victory is a coincidence.

Bin Laden is gone. Peace Corps and the American Embassy warned all of the Peace Corps Volunteers not to celebrate publicly the death of Bin Laden. They said it could potentially put us in danger. If I were in Niger, Morocco, Egypt or maybe Pakistan then maybe I would be in danger. But here in Cameroon, Cameroonians who actively sought my opinion praised his death. Some even told me they felt safer for it. Of course some also think that his death is a lie.

Bin Laden is gone, Arabs are demanding that their voices are heard, European help is being sought to remove oppressive dictators, African leaders are uniting to solve African challenges, progressive developing countries like Brazil are learning from the mistakes of developed countries’ welfare programs because they are now rich enough to provide it, the information age is opening the minds of the planet, more and more poor people are being empowered and educated, and people are calling this the end of the world? I don’t think so. This is without a doubt one of the best times to be alive. The way I see it, the world has never been falling apart. It never does. It has been putting itself together since the beginning of time. It is always the best time to be alive, as long as we all do our parts to help put it together.

May 10, 2011

5/8/11

Somehow we'll make it because that's what we do


African Night

Good night
The radiant rain releases a rusty aroma right into my memories
As the melodic tunes bounce into my ear drums
Thoughts swing back and forth in my mind
I stare at the screen, the keys feel abnormally hot.
Sitting on a cushion I bought with my own money
I smell the scent of the freshly finished cooked meal floating into my nostrils
I write this collection of contemplations
A fly gets caught in a web, it buzzes its last bad byes
Great night, good night!

April 17, 2011


Civil Storm

Storm on the war
Fulfill the feeling
Stealing what remains.
Stained where it hurts.
Dirt on your face,
Trace where it came from.
Drums in the background
Around the corner store.
Doors are slamming shut
But is it the storm?
Adore what is lost,
Cost of what is missing?
Crying to fulfill
Fulfill the feeling

April 28, 2011


Bridge

Take me away,
Take me away.
To the place in your mind,
when you wrote this lyric.
To the person who inspired
you to let yourself go.
Introduce me to that moment.
Let me be its acquaintance.

Take me to that playground,
Where your imagination spun,
Round and round, up and down
jumping off the swing set,
climbing and sliding.
Creative bliss

Take me away,
Take me there.
Don’t open your eyes.
Stay in the chorus.
Don’t close your mind,
Channeling inspiration.

Close your wings,
Let yourself fall.

May 5, 2011


4/24/11

How the hell’d we get here?


I was having a great day until I watched Blood Diamond.

Without certainty, I was sheltered growing up in one of the poorest countries in the world. Peace Corps Niger was recently evacuated because it is too dangerous to live there. Apparently Al Qaeda has finally made its way through. I don’t remember my age but I remember when President Bare was assassinated. I recall my American friends thinking that they were probably going to be evacuated. I had no idea what was going to happen to us. Looking at the situation as an adult I’m sure only the American Embassy workers and their families would have been evacuated.

I also remember a classmate, Khalipha, we were eating at lunch and he was telling us that his dad was in the room when the assassination happened. I am positive this was not true, we were just a bunch of kids competing for attention back then and children always lie to outdo each other. I do remember he reenacted the way Bare was killed. He stood up and shook his body as if he was having a seizure and dropped to his knees, then his stomach. He told us it was the machine gun fire that supposedly made his body shake like that. Back then I thought he was telling the truth.

After watching Blood Diamond again tonight I realized a few things about myself and Africa. The first time I watched it I was with my girlfriend at the time and I left feeling as if the movie hadn’t changed any of my opinions. I acted as if I had already known what was going on in Africa just because I had lived there. I remember being all nonchalant about the film. The truth is I did know the facts but I regrettably ignored the feelings. I realize now that the feelings, especially when it comes to countries in war that those feelings are far more important. What a cocky little prick I was back then. I hope I’m still not like that.

Apparently Burkina Faso is about to erupt now too. Thank God Ivory Coast is finally cooling down. Africa. This is Africa. But what is Africa? There was a line in Blood Diamond that Djimon Hounsou’s character said, “I know good men from my country that believe there is something wrong in our blood, that we were better off when white men were ruling our country.” What compels somebody to believe that? When he said that, all I could do was drop my jaw. Throughout all the twelve years that I spent growing up here I never encountered one person saying that about Africa. I am here for seven months as an adult and I have heard several people in my village say that.

I’m absolutely thankful that my parents did not surround me around people who believed that as a child, what would I have grown up to think about Africans? What do these African children grow up to believe if there parents say that all the time? Where is the pride? Where is the hope? Where is the trust? Is it even really that harder to find these essential human features here than in any other place in the world?

God I could use a beer right now, actually tequila or whiskey would be better. Be right back.

There was another line in Blood Diamond, about the Peace Corps. I’m just paraphrasing right now but DiCaprio’s character said something like, “Peace Corp Volunteers only stay here long enough to realize that nothing they do actually helps people.” I laughed when I heard this. Personally, I think he is wrong. In fact, f*** the writer for writing that. But at the same time I understand why he would write that. I have always been optimistic, I relate most to both Connelly’s and Hounsou’s characters. I am optimistic but I have to question why some people do what they do.  Come to think of it ‘development’ is an ironic word to call this field of work.

Today one of my favorite people to work with told me something (insert your own adjective here). He told me the director… actually… I won’t give you specifics but he said that an influential figure who I will be working closely with for one of my projects is very corrupt. Apparently he made young kids make bricks and kept the money for himself as well as some other bizarre things. I told him I would love to call out this director on his wrong doings but it simply is not place to do so.

My friend also told me that I shouldn’t work with this other farmer because he was not to be trusted. I told my friend that I don’t trust anyone but I do trust my judge of character. He was basically telling me to not work with a man who gave his kids an option between school and working on the fields. His children chose school and now he makes sure they do it right. He makes them study; finish their homework and everything else that is necessary to succeed in school. I told my friend that I appreciate his advice but my parents didn’t raise no fool. I will always listen to people that give their kids an option between school and working on the fields.

When it comes to trust here, I simply don’t. At least right now I don’t. I haven’t been in Meidougou long enough. Personally it takes a very special moment to trust someone. Whether it is an enlightening conversation, or if they stick with me during a tragedy, or if I notice that they are always there for me, or if we share some sort of life changing moment, I can’t forget history, if I have a long history with a person I tend to (at least most of the times) stick around with them.

Good company is usually not too difficult to find however finding people that reciprocate respect, keep their words, pay back debts, feed your pets while you’re out, help you paint your walls, hand you their last cigarette, clean up your πss, return your phone calls, this list can truly write a trilogy.

All in all what I want to say is that Africa has good company, trustworthy people, respectful men and women but what I’m praying for is that the less educated Africans soon realize that it is just as hard to find these people in any other corner of the world.

Carlos Jesus Fernandez-Torres
April 21, 2011

Teardrop on the Fire


What was I thinking? I should have been using only candles long ago. They are way better than lanterns or flashlights. There was a violent storm earlier today and this usually means that there will be no electricity for a while. No big deal, I have candles now.

I know I complain a lot about the kids in the concession, but I do love them. Since the power went out I thought it’d be a good idea to use all the tomatoes in my fridge so they don’t go bad. There was also a lemon in the vegetable drawer. Today was an insanely busy day. I’m teaching a women’s group who I’m working with how to make soap. The plan is to sell it at the health center and educate the mamas on hygiene. Did I mention tonight was the first time I have ever made soap in my life? Anyways by the time I was done working with them I scrambled to start cooking dinner. It was around eight o’clock.

I asked the kids if they wanted to help me. “BIEN SUR!” They respond. This is, ‘of course!’ in French. These four are named, Amadou (who I like to call Amadamadou), Ibrahim, Yaouba and my favorite, Yousoufa. I’m not supposed to have favorites but he totally is. Keep in mind that there is no electricity; all I have are four candles, one lantern and my heavy duty Mag-lite. I light the four candles on all corners of the kitchen and place the lantern on the counter. The kitchen has never looked so cool.

Amadamadou said, “We can’t start without washing our hands!”

By the way, I taught him that (he also covers his sneezes with his shoulder now too).

I bring in my bucket with some reserved water in it from earlier and we wash our hands with that. The four of us start cutting the onions, garlic and tomatoes. I light the stove, pour some olive oil in my pan, slide all the vegetables in the pan and begin to stir. The kids all watch me. I shake some oregano, thyme, paprika, black pepper and salt in the pan. The kids all watch me. I decide to put some music on, my mom sent me some speakers that work with batteries for my birthday. The kids request Neon Bible by Arcade Fire, its one of the few songs I know how to play on the guitar and they love that song. I get out some tomato paste and mix it with filtered water; I pour that into the pan too. The kids all watching me. After a while I finally decide to start boiling water for the macaroni impulsively decide to squeeze the lemon in the sauce too. Luckily earlier I had asked Yousoufa to get me some macaroni and onions as I was making soap with the women, without him there would be no dinner tonight. I pour the macaroni in the boiling water.

The kids watched.

It’s a custom here to share food. It’s rare when the Dadas (mamas) of the concession (compound) don’t offer me what they cook. They usually end up giving me what they make even after I say, “No thank you.” This simple way of life has compelled me to always share what I cook, no matter how much I prepare. This is also the reason I never have leftovers.

I realized that the bag of macaroni Yousoufa bought was a little too small after I’m done pouring out the water from the pot. There is only enough for three servings. Dang it. I decide at that moment that I wouldn’t eat tonight. There would only be enough for the kids, the mamas, and my landlord (and his wife). I serve the two bowls and the third one in the Tupperware (for my landlord, Salihou). I ask Amadamadou to give one of the bowls to the mamas and other kids and ask Ibrahim to give the Tupperware to Salihou. When the two got back I handed them the third bowl. They instantly asked, “Aren’t you going to eat?”

I replied, “No, I’m not hungry, I just wanted to use the tomatoes before they got bad.”

They didn’t believe me. They knew I had not eaten because before working with the women’s group, the five of us were working on the garden and before that I went to the middle school for my English lesson (which I didn’t get to teach because of the rainstorm). These kids immediately stopped eating and handed me the rest of the bowl which was still practically full. I accepted. They asked me if they could play with the blocks and the puzzle of the African map I bought for them. I respond,

“BIEN SUR!”

I place all but one candle in the living room for them. I leave the lantern on the floor and enjoy my meal with pleasant music by the candle light. Sometimes I envy the volunteers in villages without electricity. I join them in the living room and open Three Cups of Tea (given to me as a gift by my older sister, Isis). After a chapter and a half, I get inspiration to write this entry. Reading by candle light with music in the background is officially one of my new favorite past times.

Merci, Yousoufa, Amadamadou, Ibrahim and Yaouba.

Carlos Jesus Fernandez-Torres
April 19, 2011

4/19/11

They say rap has changed, they want to know how I feel about it

I have been writing a lot. Enjoy some poetry.

MaPa

When I get lost I look for my Ma
When I get lost I remember my Pa
The givers of my life
The reason I’m alive

The writers of my name
The editors of my thoughts
The publishers of my inspiration
Mi Ma y mi Pa

Juntos,
Together
They not only gave me my life
But give it to me every day
Cada dia

I get lost a lot.
Cada dia,
But there are never problems
Only challenges
Cada dia
I erase my limits
And review my direction
But before I look through the telescope
I look for my Ma
And remember my Pa
Y digo gracias a Dios por mi MaPa

Carlitos J. Fernandez-Torres
January 1, 2011


Ill Regal Immigrant

Stop kissing my hand
Stop passing me the ball
Get me off of this stand,
Stop worrying, I’m not going to fall

You see the color of my skin,
So you triple the price.
I can’t let you win.
I can’t be too nice

I can’t give you money,
Children, please stop starring
This attention is scarring.

Men claim to know
everything about the whites.
Maybe they’re right.

I’ll tell you what.

Hand me that cup of tea
Sell me that lantern oil fairly
I’ll show you some pictures,
Some new music too
And we can go out dancing

Then we will
know,
understand,
and simply stand
One another.

Carlos Jesus Fernandez-Torres
April 14, 2011


Fire on a Canoe

In this very moment,
two different lights are
at my front.

I am facing one,
the other is facing me.

The one I am not facing,
Is a flame.
a fire that dances within
a sphere of a golden silhouette.

It delivers inspiration,
smoothly,
It descends transcendently,
Like a river’s source
from a mountain.

Decorating the tip of the wick
is a glowing red charcoal.
It does not have much time
left. We both burn.

The other
light,
will stay bright
for exactly five hours
and fifty five minutes more.

This light does not
dance.
It does not
inspire.

Instead this fire,
waits.
For me.
For my thoughts to be transferred
inside.

Instead in this light I confide
everything I choose to hide.

This modern typewriter
is the mouth of my
river of contemplations
and revelations.

Here.
The three of us
wait.
Each with a purpose.
Wait!
Tragic or perfect?
Neither,
of
us
have
enough
t
i
m
e
.

Carlos J. Fernandez-Torres
April 19, 2011

4/17/11

I’m coming to take you home

I remember when I first moved the Michigan. I remember lying down on my cousin’s trampoline with my fingers laced behind my head. I looked at the summer sun hiding behind the tree’s leaves and branches, they wear waving back and forth. The summer breeze was warm and humid. I remember asking my two younger cousins, “You know what the difference is between the sun here and the sun in Africa?” They responded in a confused tone, “no?” I answered, “Nothing.”

Another memory I’ve been thinking about was the first rain I witnessed in Michigan. I was so excited, I was beaming with enthusiasm. I couldn’t wait to smell the rain, to smell the dust thrown into the atmosphere by the drops of rain. I was so disappointed. The aroma never really arrived. It was so faint that the experience was stolen from me. I could never really figure out why the scent never arrived.

Until now

This week has been radiant. The last two weeks were split into two parts. The first was what we call IST (In-Service Training), a one week seminar filled with sometimes useful workshops. The second week was all traveling. I visited the northern part of Cameroon. I was so close to my previous home, closer than I have ever been in the last ten years. I got choked up. It is good to be back at post, this week has been very proactive but reminiscing my travels in the Extreme North region of Cameroon also comforts me.

I saw Nym Trees. I inhaled dry air, really dry, so dry that some of my friends got bloody noses. I took a walk through Maroua. Maroua is the capitol region of the Extreme North. I hate to admit it but Maroua is more beautiful than Niamey. Maroua has Nym trees on every single street, providing shade to every single pedestrian. The motos in Maroua are not very comfortable but their old classic looks complement the city’s character in an eclectic way. I got lost in Maroua, both figuratively and literally. On my walk I stopped to chat with some kids collecting the berries from the Nym trees. I asked them why, they told me it was to make cooking oil. Mangos were ripe in the Extreme North. The skin was green but their fibrous insides were bright orange. They were naturally divinely delicious. I was reminded of Niger. The city of my adolescence, the city where I got to know the sun so well.

In Maroua, I lied down on a hammock type seat and stared at the Nym trees waving at me for hours. A part of me wanted to head to the bus stop and see the rest of the region but the other firmly decided to take in the Nym trees.

The reason you can smell the rain here in Africa better is because there are less paved roads. There is just so much sand and dirt everywhere that when the raindrops hit the ground they throw the wet dust into the air. The aroma comforted me as a child, it meant that the dry season was over and life was coming back. Michigan is filled with grass and paved roads. It is actually difficult sometimes to find dirt patches in Michigan. Here it is not so.

I love the sun here too, but it is no different than Michigan’s sun. I thought the exact same thing when I was on my cousin’s trampoline. I love the sun everywhere. But I also love the clouds. I love it when there are enough clouds that they pour rain and life onto the ground. I absolutely love it when it rains here.


I’m confused. Most days I’m sure this will probably be the last time I live in Africa. I enjoyed Asia so much. I would love to work there some day. Bangladesh lassoed me to that region so much that I’m planning on visiting Pakistan after my service here. However, there are days. There are days like the one during my voyage to the Extreme North where I had a sorcerer tell me how many kids I’m going to have. He added that I’ll be traveling throughout Africa with them some day. This old man spit on a crab, placed it in a pot filled with water, sand and dried up clay. Pulled it out, recited some sort of prayer, spit on it again and told me how many children I will have. To be honest, I like the thought of taking my future family throughout Africa someday. It’s a beautiful contemplation.

I guess I still have time under this galaxy’s sun to figure out just what and where the hell I’m going to be for the rest of my life.

It’s strange, I reminisced a lot of Africa while I lived in Michigan but I don’t reminisce that much of Michigan while I’m here (except for going to the cinema of course). Writing this entry did make me think of two other special things I love about Michigan. The first is definitely the scent of a freshly mowed lawn. The other one was the first time I saw snow. I was sitting in Mr. Savage’s American Government class and I saw the flakes dance their way down to the grass. I remember dropping a few of my own rain drops on my textbook that day; the snow was simply that stunning.

Jesus, now more memories are coming. I better stop before I get even more confused. Like I said, I have the rest of these two years to figure this shit out.

The crab said three by the way.

April 17, 2011
Carlos J. Fernandez-Torres